17 replies to this topic

[liv2drift]

Done this probably 20 times now, never took apart the rear upper arm. I do have on suggestion thats not in the write up (unless I over looked it). Disconnect the front and rear swaybars (endlinks) this gives you a bit more play and maneaverability (is that a word?!?!?)

Good write up though.

[Vindicare]

liv2drift, on Jun 12 2010, 02:09 PM, said:

Done this probably 20 times now, never took apart the rear upper arm. I do have on suggestion thats not in the write up (unless I over looked it). Disconnect the front and rear swaybars (endlinks) this gives you a bit more play and maneaverability (is that a word?!?!?)

Good write up though.

Yeah same, I dont personally see the need to take apart the rear upper arm.

Haha it is a word, just dont think it is spelt write!
That is a handy way to get a bit more movement, if you arent doing the spring compressor way it would be helpful for the pole levering way. IMO spring compressors are so quick and easy to use that I find it the easiest really

[5hu7o]

http://garage036.web.fc2.com/diy/cha_shako...a_shakocho.html

[krezii]

sorry for bringing up an old post... but im stuck at the part where you gotta knock the front wishbone out.

it seems to not budge at all no matter how hard i bang it. Is there another way to remove the front suspension? any tips will be much appreciated. thanks

[FragLord]

I would not remove the top wishbone on the front to install coilovers, have done heaps of suspension swaps on jzx's and at most we undo the swaybar link and then can drop the shock down and pivot out.

[Mclean]

Yeah I tried to follow this guide and do that too when I did mine not too long ago but never managed to remove it that way. Really didn't want to do too much damage or destroy the ball joint boots or whatever they are called and ended up undoing the swaybar link and using the leverage of a massive torque wrench to lever stuff downwards and wiggled the bastards out. Wasn't much fun at all but after the first one is out the rest are a lot easier.

[Cuts]

I thought I might chime in with my $0.02.

I cant speak for all coilovers but the ones I have seen have a bush in the bottom similar to an OE type bush. These should only be tightened completly when the weight of the car is sitting as it nomally would. If you dont the bush ends up twisted when the car is at rest.

The ideea is to say put a block/brick/tiny jack stand etc. under the hub or control arm, lower the car down so the suspension is settled, then tighten the bottom bolt. The bush is then sitting in its natural state when the car is sitting normally.

hope that makes sence, I could do a write up or a mad paint drawing if need be,

[dlunlimited]

I thought I would expand onto this for the people (like me) that unfortunately had to go back to standard suspension.

I will do the best to explain with the terminology I know.

Due to the length of healthy standard shocks and springs you will find the fronts very hard to do. The problem lies with that the struts are simply too long to fit.

I tried hammering apart the upper ball joint to no avail, it was tighter than a nun.

I tried springs compressors and long levers to lower the front hubs, but still came up 25mm short.......

Not wanting to go ahead unbolting all sorts of arms I gave up and went to a work shop.

If I had one of these "Pitman arm puller" it would have allowed me to do the job in about 30 minutes. Basically it pushes apart the top ball joint allowing the hub to drop, giving you the length you require. Another benefit to using this tool over a hammer is if you slightly miss you wont ruin the thread along the ball joint, nor will you damage that upper wishbone.

As others have said the rears just need some long leverage.

If you are going from stock to coil-overs I would still undo the upper ball joint as it makes everything so much easier. Also unbolting the sway bar end links front and rear allows for more play.

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