It's a 2001 post-facelift Chaser TourerV, colour coded 042 (Super white????) with stock fenders, sideskirts, front and rear bumpers. It came with stock 5 speed manual. The previous owner had did some modifications to it which included:
- Blitz Realize TT cat-back exhaust (76.3 or 80.0mm? I don't know) which is made from Alstar so it's quite rusted (understandable considering this car had a Tottori number in Japan)
- Blitz turbo timer
- Braided brake lines
- JIC (I don't know which specific type) coil-over suspension
- 17 inch no-name alloys (width either a 8 or a 8.5?) dressed in 215/45 Toyo Trampio Vimode
- Clear indicators up front
- earthing kit
- metal pedal covers
Since then, I've come to really like the car and began working on it on the weekends. Current mods are as follows:
- Blitz DUAL-SBC Type R (Set at only 2 Gain and four modes at 0, 15, 30 and 42) The 42 gives me 0.91 boost, up from the stock 0.75. I cannot run any higher at the moment because I run a stock ECU and Intercooler.
- Blitz Stain-mesh/paper combi replacement filter (Spec LM) for the stock airbox
- 4500 Kelvin HIDs
- 110W 5000 Kelvin High-beam halogens
- TOM'S Upper Performance Rod (Fr) Suspension Member Reinforcement Rod (Fr) Suspension Member Reinforcement Brace (Fr & Rr) Lower Body Reinforcement Brace (Rr) Upper Body Reinforcement Brace (Rr)
- Kunny'z transmission mount urethane collar
- WELD differential bush duralium collars
- TRD rear diff mount bushes
- Do-Luck floor cross-member
- Do-Luck shift rigid collars
- TRD short-shifter
- Generic engine torque damper
- Kazama JZX100 rear suspension arm set
- Neoprene (generic) suspension member bush rings (drift pineapples ??)
- JZX110 tension rods with TRD bush replacements.
- NGK Platinum plugs
- Detached ETCS coupling (maybe I'll purchase a PowerHouse Amuse ETCS controller in the future)
I have yet to put in a pair of Kazama tie-rods and the rest of the suspension and differential TRD bush replacements (because I don't know how to put them in yet!!!)
I'm now waiting for a oil-element relocation kit from GReddy, because I hate the mess I make every time I change oil and filter element at 5000km.
My next set of upgrades are:
- APexi POWER FC with commander
- SARD sports catalyzer
- SARD in-tank fuel pump
- Kazama SPL engine mounts
I'd love to buy an intercooler (most would have done this waaaay earlier) but I am still unsure which brand and type to buy!! ARC is fricking expensive, but HDi is nice and cheap.
Eventually I'm looking to run a GT3037S kit with 550cc injectors, HPI Type II exhaust manifold, valve shims and springs, and 264 degree high-lift intake cams and (unsure) exhaust cams.
As of maintenance, I stick to 5000km oil + filter changes. I use Ryco filters because they're cheap.
The car had done 110000km when purchased so I've changed plugs, coolant, transmission fluid and differential fluids.
The current oil I use is a 15W-55 (?) Nulon, which is about thirty something bucks. I tried the 10W-60 Castrol Edge, but farrrrk, it costs 60-odd dollars, and I don't even understand the difference.
I run thicker grade oils because in HyperRev, a lot of tuners recommend them especially in higher-mileage 1JZ-GTEs running higher than usual boost on stock turbines.
On occasion, I feel the engine retarding the ignition timing especially when I run inappropriate boost or apply too much load in a wrong gear. Maybe this is bad, but I tend to remove the fuse from the box for the ECU, and then put it back in. What do you guys think?
The 215/45 look nice on my rims and the sidewall taper lets the rear tyre clear the unrolled arches
When working on the car, I recommend the chassis and suspension link upgrades first, over searching for more power, as I feel the stock engine has an amazing performance anyway, provided you have a catback exhaust that's sizeable. The links let you achieve wider alignment choices, especially if you have lowered your car. I was in Japan just recently, and the guys at Do-Luck did not recommend putting in roll-centre adapters for the chaser, because they felt you would need to sacrifice the track width of the wheels. However, they did say short, adjustable stabi-links were really good for those with lowered ride-height, running stock stabilisers. Also thicker stabilisers up back weren't that good for overall handling as compared to just a front upgrade.
Those physics nuts out there may debate away, but keep me out of it as I am just a noob who really likes the JZX100!!!!





Skitzo
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TRD JZX100
