36 replies to this topic

[RyanT]

Here's the pics of the BOV mod as requested. I'm sure there are better tutorials around, but feel free to try and use mine if you like a challenge ...



What you'll need:

1.5 metres of new vac line (just to be safe), a threaded hose nipple (I used a 1/8 hose end by 1/8" BNC threaded unit), a 12mm socket and ratchet, some pliers, a drill and drill bits, Thread sealant and maybe some little hose clamps if your vac line isn't fitting tight enough.



What to do:

Obviously remove your BOV before you try and drill it out. It's easy, just 2 nuts and one of the return line hose clips needs to come off, as well as the vac hose from the green actuator. Now yank her out.

Be careful to not overdrill the vent hole. There isn't a lot of meat here (circa 1mm) so you need a nice tight fit with your hose fitting to ensure it's leak free. To make this easier, try and buy your 1/8" hose nipple with a thread that has a decent taper. To aid in sealing the connection, be sure to use some silicon type gasket maker or equivalent. Thread tape wont really work properly due to the lack of interlocking threads. It'll also come off inside your BOV. Avoid dropping your metal filings into the valve whilst drilling too. Some folks have tapped this hole out, but considering the thickness of the parent metal it isn't really necessary imo.

Once you've got your nipple screwed in and sealed, give it half an hour to dry, then test the seal by blowing into the nipple. Tasty. If you hear air pissing out from around the threads, better try again with that sealant.

Got it snug and sealed?? Good. Jam it back on the car now. Once reinstalled, go and find that spare nipple on the plenum. This is where you're going to run the new hose too. It should have a little black plug over it. If yours is in use (hello Isaac), then try T-ing into the available line, but be careful if you're tapping into an EBC feed etc, as this may have a negative result. It really shouldn't worry it, but if it does, go hunting for the next available vac line on the plenum side.

So yeah, run your new vac line from the nipple you installed to the spare nipple on the plenum. I just ran it around the back of the block and cable tied her in. Used just over a metre of vac line. Fix the connections with hose clamps if they're not tight. I say this because I used a vac line which had a greater ID than the OD of the plenum nipple (wanted it to flow well). As you'll see in the pics, I needed a clamp on the plenum but not on the BOV. I also sleeved the plenum nipple for maximum snugness.

Next step is easiest to see on the pics below. Just unplug the vac line that goes from the turbo region to the green control solenoid, and plug it in to the original nipple that's on the side of the BOV.

Then you'll have one line left coming off the green solenoid. It'll just be flopping about at this stage. This used to be plugged into your BOV. Make a U-Turn with it and slam it back onto the annoying green solenoid.

And that's it! If your thread sealant still seems a bit tacky, perhaps wait a while until it dries...

And now you're ready to enjoy the new found power and response, whilst maintaining normal BOV operation. Hooray!



Apologies if this makes no sense. I didn't really set out to write a guide, but here we are. Hopefully you can see enough from the end result pics below to get you through. Good Luck!

Attached Files

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[Chiba]

or just remoeve blue plug for flutter flutter.... nice tutorial but i spot stock dump pipe fail.

[FragLord]

Went to Ryan's place today and we did the mod. It's awesome, no more hesitation on acceleration.

[gem77]

Nice write up. Ive been meanin to do this mod for ages now. I think this tuesday sounds good to give it ago. By the sounds of things it should only take about an hour at most.

Cheers again!

[gem77]

Chiba, on Dec 27 2009, 09:02 AM, said:

or just remoeve blue plug for flutter flutter.... nice tutorial but i spot stock dump pipe fail.

X2 on the dump pipe, some sexy lobsterback welds would be a much nicer addition.

[RyanT]

Chiba, on Dec 27 2009, 09:02 AM, said:

or just remoeve blue plug for flutter flutter.... nice tutorial but i spot stock dump pipe fail.

Orr, gee, fair go lads!!

Only had the car for about 12 minutes. Already bought Fraglords dump though. I'll stick it on there this week for ya....Sheesh


And nar, this mod doesn't take long. 1 hour max including ample sealant drying time. Get to it!

[jzxtoy]

I did this and found now that iahave decent flat spot right down low in the rev range, its quite anoyying.Going to change it back or get my Blitz recirculting valve up and running.

[FroDaddy]

^ I've heard that's what happens...

[Sim]

jzxtoy, on Dec 29 2009, 05:50 PM, said:

I did this and found now that iahave decent flat spot right down low in the rev range, its quite anoyying.Going to change it back or get my Blitz recirculting valve up and running.

thats cause it doesnt fucking work!!!! how many times has this been said. if you read through the other thread on modding the bov you would have found me saying id tried all combinations only to find IT DOESNT CLOSE TILL IT COMES ON BOOST. best mod to the bov bang for buck....unplug it. if you really want to have a bov replace it.
for those that have done this mod thinking its awesome, try disconecting the bov and see how much better it feels.

[Wanjayzee]

Sim, on Dec 29 2009, 08:37 PM, said:

thats cause it doesnt fucking work!!!! how many times has this been said. if you read through the other thread on modding the bov you would have found me saying id tried all combinations only to find IT DOESNT CLOSE TILL IT COMES ON BOOST. best mod to the bov bang for buck....unplug it. if you really want to have a bov replace it.
for those that have done this mod thinking its awesome, try disconecting the bov and see how much better it feels.

+1

I also mentioned somewhere that when i put mine on the dyno, back to back test bov plugged in and unplugged... plugged in it made almost 10kw less then unplugged

true story...