156 replies to this topic

[Kenji]

Thanks Sonic, I''ll be sure to check that out, as I'll be fitting the new turbo's and dumppipes as soon as the turbo's arrive (should be tomorrow or day after)


Fitted the polished camcover today. Looks bling

[matttai]

i just realised
your tails look smoked
are they?
how did you do that?

thanks,

matt

[Kenji]

Yep they're smoked. Used special paint (sort of like diluted normal black paint) and gave them a few coats.
Not too thick or they're just plain black.

[psikazi]

you do have to much time on your hands... very nice by the way... how much did it set u back mate

[Kenji]

As my old CT12A stockies were blowing smoke, I had to find something to replace them with.
Didn't want to go single, as I hate lag
I found the solution with a HKS T3G twin turbo kit.
"Bolt on", apparently....
Well, not exactly, they fit relativeley easym, but there are some adjustments to be made, and those adjustments are big enough to classify the turbo kit as "not bolt on, takes some adjustment".
Without a welder, there's a problem.

Small how-to...

Remove the piping, leave the rear compressor intake on, as it gives you something to grab hold of as you lift out the turbo assembly::



And by removing the lower radiator hose, thermostat housing and downpipe, you can unbolt the manifolds and take out the twins with Y-pipe as a whole:



Leaving a big gap....



Took off the compressor housing of the HKS's to give them a bit of a clean-up:



Then, bolt in the HKS twins/Y-pipe as a whole:



and make new water-feeds/returns, as the old aluminium piping cannot be connected to the waterlines on the turbo's



The flange on the HKS Y-pipe is at a different angle as the original, so the flange on the downpipe has to be removed, and welded on at a different angle (notch the downpipe).
Also, the HKS's don't require a gasket between the turbo's and the Y-pipe, as taht will make the assembly too wide to fit onto the studs.
And you have to tap in a boostnipple on the intercooler pipe to run to the actuators, as the HKS turbo's don;t have their own boostnipples.

So all in all: the kit is great, but not as bolt on as we are meant to believe.
It took me and a friend 2 days (around 7 hours per day) to remove the old, fit the new, and modify everything for a good fit.

But the result is worth it. The car is so fast and pretty responsive.
Boost comes in at around 2500 and at 3500 rpm there's full boost, 1.1 bar, and it keeps pulling to the redline.

Now for a set of bigger injectors and an SAFCII, and I can safely run even higher boost.

Here's a short cellphone movie (sound crap, image crap, but you get the basic idea) of the car doing a 80-170 km/h run in a tunnel

Edited by Kenji, 16 August 2008 - 02:07 AM.

[Rodspringer]

Yehaaa cant wait to get mine on.....

Thanks for the tips will have to get them to my mechanic

[Sonic]

well done getting it completed

i hope you can do a dyno run soon, i'd be interested in seeing a read out of how much the torque curve has changed, as well as a rwkw and boost number too.

this is a swap i'm eventually going for although i want to keep my standard CT12 housings and get the HKS internals fitted. that way i can keep my split dumps and all the plumbing is standard.

[Kenji]

Word of advice....

These turbo's definatly need a heatshield....

In 2 days they managed to produce so much heat that they've molten all my silicone hoses from my boost controller solenoid (and they ran around 10 cm away from the rear turbo's exhaust side

So this week I'll be:
- fitting new silicone hoses onto the boost controller
- making a custom heatshield (stok item doesn't fit onto the HKS's)

[Sonic]

heat shields are a good idea for turbos, they work more efficiently when they're hot while the rest of your engine bay wants to keep cool. are the turbo 'bags' available for these?

[Sonic]

hey Kenji, hope you don't mind if i combine all your various mod posts in this one topic? you've done a fair bit to this car and it'd be nice to see all the work posted together.