110 replies to this topic

[ToF]

Dave-GT-JZX100, on Feb 19 2009, 08:41 PM, said:

Anyone tried that NULON 10W-40, 100% synthetic??

Comes in a six litre bottle too, would be mighty handy, saves buying that extra litre bottle.
Thinking bout trying it on next service.

OK I had the same idea as you back when I had my shitty Datsun but I soon learnt my mistake. The specs, ie. synthetic/weight/etc don't paint the whole picture when looking for oil. Apparently those Nulon engine oils are shit according to some tests from oil professionals.

Best quality cheap oil was apparently Mobil Delvac but obviously you can't get those in retail shops so I just went for something "OK" which is Motul. Whatever you do just don't touch Nulon.

[Dave-GT-JZX100]

Thanks for the heads up. did seem a bit too good to be true.

Probably will try Motul instead next oil change. last one using Mobil 1 10W-30 fully syn cost me like $108 for the six litres @ trade price

[TOKYO-1]

Maybe a silly question, but can you get the Motul in a one litre bottle as well?

[FragLord]

You can. But its around $20-$25 per 1 litre.

SO I just bought 2 x 5 Litre and keep the spare for changes down the track.

[Zoidberg]

Why would you use heavy oil such as 10w-50??? This stuff is designed for old big bore v8 engines that need thick oil.

The 1JZ DOES NOT need thick oil.

Understand what the numbers mean

Here is an example:

10W-50

10W = This is the COLD or WINTER (that's where the W comes from) viscosity rating. Lower numbers are better for cold and/or snow climates.

50 = This is the normal operating viscosity rating. The higher the number the thicker the oil will be at a given temperature.

Conclusion: 10W-50 is not ideal.


TOYOTA RECOMMENDS 5W-30 for 1JZ-GTE.

So with this in mind we do live in a rather hot climate. The 5w is probably a little too thin for our hotter climate so a small step up is required, perhaps a 10W for example.

The 30 part of the rating will probably be ok for sedate driving during the cooler months of the year but for summer and a thrash or two a 40 weight oil would be preferable.

So to conclude, we should be looking at an oil with a viscosity rating of 10w-40.

As for brand, this is a personal choice but please try to understand what the numbers actually mean.


If you have smoke or excessive oil use their is usually a mechanical reason. Check things like valve steam seals, turbo bearings, worn piston oil control rings ect.... Their are many reasons for smoky engines, thick oil just covers up the real problem.

[5hu7o]

at the moment im using Pennzoil GT Performance Synthetic Blend 10W-40
pretty good for a decent priced oil.

[jzxtoy]

Dave-GT-JZX100, on Feb 19 2009, 07:41 PM, said:

Anyone tried that NULON 10W-40, 100% synthetic??

Comes in a six litre bottle too, would be mighty handy, saves buying that extra litre bottle.
Thinking bout trying it on next service.

Im just bought some so i'll let you know how it goes.

[Tyg3r]

I bought nulon, i hated it, i swear my engine actually felt rougher the minute i started it up. I don't recommend.

currently running Motul 300v chrono, mega costly, smells almost like honey, feels fucking awesome (10w - 40) But also Li was pointing out to me it might not (i don't know for sure but he says it doesn't) have detergents in it which protect from oxidisation.
In terms of performance the oil is sick, feels so smooth, car revs so freely. But i'd be going something cheaper next time the whole possible lack of detergents somewhat bothers me...

[S0unIQ]

Might try The Penrite Enviro+ ones for a laugh.
http://www.penriteoi...oil/enviro-plus

Full synthetic and in correct weights! And is quite cheap!

[Kaizen]

5hu7o I'm using the same. Seems ok. Use it cos I get it cheap through my mechanic. Else I'd run Fuchs (but nobody seems to stock anymore..)