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Turbochargers and Superchargers
Jul 06 2011 11:10 PM | TRD JZX100 in Technical Resources
Turbochargers and Superchargers
Let's start with the similarities. Both turbochargers and superchargers are called forced induction systems. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine stuff more air into a cylinder. More air means that more fuel can be stuffed in, too, so you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbo/supercharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the charging.
The typical boost provided by either a turbocharger or a supercharger is 6 to 8 pounds per square inch (psi). Since normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, you can see that you are getting about 50-percent more air into the engine. Therefore, you would expect to get 50-percent more power. It's not perfectly efficient, though, so you might get a 30-percent to 40-percent improvement instead.
The key difference between a turbocharger and a supercharger is its power supply. Something has to supply the power to run the air compressor. In a supercharger, there is a belt that connects directly to the engine. It gets its power the same way that the water pump or alternator does. A turbocharger, on the other hand, gets its power from the exhaust stream. The exhaust runs through a turbine, which in turn spins the compressor.
There are tradeoffs in both systems. In theory, a turbocharger is more efficient because it is using the "wasted" energy in the exhaust stream for its power source. On the other hand, a turbocharger causes some amount of back pressure in the exhaust system and tends to provide less boost until the engine is running at higher RPMs. Superchargers are easier to install but tend to be more expensive.
The Similarities between Superchargers and Turbochargers
Turbochargers and superchargers are similar in that they both compress air to higher than atmospheric pressures. Normal or standard atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 psi (pounds per square inch or "psi"). The job of the compressor common to both turbochargers and superchargers is to increase air pressure so that more air is forced into the cylinders ("forced induction"). This increased air volume ("boost") is mixed with a proportionately increased fuel volume which, when burned in the combustion cycle, results in increased horsepower and torque production.
Power Curve Differences
Because they are belt driven from the engine crankshaft, centrifugal and roots superchargers build boost as rpm increases in a linear fashion. As engine rpm increases, the supercharger compressor speed (and boost level) increases to the point of peak boost occurring at peak engine rpm. For example, a centrifugal or roots supercharger designed to produce 8 psi at 6,000 rpm may produce as little as 2.5 lbs. of boost at 3,000 rpm. Screw-type superchargers are more like turbochargers in that they build boost much earlier than a centrifugal or roots-type, and they are also belt-driven. Turbochargersare exhaust driven, and come up to speed very quickly (almost instantly if properly sized), and will reach the same 8 lb. peak boost level as low as 2,500 rpm. There will always be lag with a turbo system. Small size turbos are good for spooling at lower rpms but the user must utilize a wastegate to slow down the fans when boost gets too high. thus at a higher rpm. smaller turbos loose their appeal. On the other hand, you can use a twin turbo setup with a small and a large turbo mounted and this does well for having boost at all rpms.
Efficiency Comparison
Just like the air conditioner compressor on a car, all superchargers, including centrifugal, roots and screw-type, require horsepower to turn them. This "parasitic" drag is always present, even when the car is being driven normally, and can rob 20%-30% of the power being produced by the engine. The result is a significant decrease in fuel economy and less net power produced. Turbochargers, however, are exhaust gas driven and don't require the same parasitic loss to spin the compressor. When driven normally, a turbocharged car will not consume more fuel and, in fact, gas mileage can actually increase. Even when under full throttle, a turbocharger system will produce as much horsepower at 9 psi as a supercharger at 12 psi. Over all though, Superchargers are more reliable than turbos by themselves. This is because of the residual oil that sits inside the bearings can cook due to the high temperatures these turbos operate at; combined with the insane amount of rpms they spin at.
Reliability Comparison
Both superchargers and turbochargers require high compressor rpm to compress the air. This ranges from 30,000-65,000 rpm in superchargers and can be even higher with turbos (over 100,000 rpm). In order to achieve the high rpm levels required to compress the air to the psi required, superchargers must have a step-up mechanism (gears, belts, pulleys or a combination thereof) consisting of numerous moving parts, to convert 6,000 engine rpm to the 40,000+ rpm necessary to build boost. Turbochargers need no step-up mechanism and have only one moving part, the compressor/turbine wheel assembly (see Figure 2). The simplicity of the turbocharger is therefore less prone to mechanical problems. Superchargers must have a belt to drive them, and belt slippage or breakage can be a problem. More serious problems include crankshaft, bearing and engine damage caused by belt tension forces on the crankshaft. Turbochargers have no belt and no direct mechanical connection to the crankshaft, thereby eliminating these problems. It is interesting to note that many automobiles and nearly all large over-the-road trucks use turbochargers that regularly log in excess of a million miles of reliable performance.
Maintenance Comparison
Some superchargers have a separate lubricating system that must be maintained and some don’t. Turbochargers are lubricated by the engine oil, but will require tapping the oil pan to install, and require no additional maintenance beyond what is normally required for a naturally aspirated car.
Streetability Comparison
Superchargers are directly connected to the belt drive system, they are always producing some level of boost and cannot be "turned off". Because turbochargers only produce boost when under load (as in full throttle acceleration), performance under normal driving conditions is no different than if the engine were naturally aspirated. Turbocharged cars exhibit excellent drivability characteristics.
Upgradability and Adjustability Comparison
Superchargers are generally not upgradeable. When higher performance is required beyond the capabilities of a specific supercharger system, the entire system must be replaced. Turbocharger systems, however, are usually upgradeable by simply upgrading or installing a larger turbocharger without requiring replacement of the entire system. Further, adjusting the boost levels on a supercharger requires removing and replacing pulleys, idlers and belts. Adjusting the boost levels on a turbocharger may be accomplished as easy as a simple turn of a boost controller knob from the comfort of the inside of the car or without a controller a different spring must be installed in the wastegate.
Value/Price Comparison
At first glance, turbo systems may appear to cost more. However, if you consider everything that is included in a complete turbo kit that must be purchased in addition to the supercharger kit in order for the supercharger kit to be comparable (not even considering the performance differences), you may find the turbo system is less expensive and a much better horsepower per dollar value. Depends on your unique setup and what the purpose of your car is to decide on which is a better value.
Installation
Because of the few things required, most diy'ers can install a supercharger easily. Turbos require more installation work and also more upgrades to the engines bay. Supercharges on the other hand if not tuned properly can detonate and destroy the top end a lot easier.
Read story → 0 comments
Let's start with the similarities. Both turbochargers and superchargers are called forced induction systems. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine stuff more air into a cylinder. More air means that more fuel can be stuffed in, too, so you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. A turbo/supercharged engine produces more power overall than the same engine without the charging.
The typical boost provided by either a turbocharger or a supercharger is 6 to 8 pounds per square inch (psi). Since normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, you can see that you are getting about 50-percent more air into the engine. Therefore, you would expect to get 50-percent more power. It's not perfectly efficient, though, so you might get a 30-percent to 40-percent improvement instead.
The key difference between a turbocharger and a supercharger is its power supply. Something has to supply the power to run the air compressor. In a supercharger, there is a belt that connects directly to the engine. It gets its power the same way that the water pump or alternator does. A turbocharger, on the other hand, gets its power from the exhaust stream. The exhaust runs through a turbine, which in turn spins the compressor.
There are tradeoffs in both systems. In theory, a turbocharger is more efficient because it is using the "wasted" energy in the exhaust stream for its power source. On the other hand, a turbocharger causes some amount of back pressure in the exhaust system and tends to provide less boost until the engine is running at higher RPMs. Superchargers are easier to install but tend to be more expensive.
The Similarities between Superchargers and Turbochargers
Turbochargers and superchargers are similar in that they both compress air to higher than atmospheric pressures. Normal or standard atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 psi (pounds per square inch or "psi"). The job of the compressor common to both turbochargers and superchargers is to increase air pressure so that more air is forced into the cylinders ("forced induction"). This increased air volume ("boost") is mixed with a proportionately increased fuel volume which, when burned in the combustion cycle, results in increased horsepower and torque production.
Power Curve Differences
Because they are belt driven from the engine crankshaft, centrifugal and roots superchargers build boost as rpm increases in a linear fashion. As engine rpm increases, the supercharger compressor speed (and boost level) increases to the point of peak boost occurring at peak engine rpm. For example, a centrifugal or roots supercharger designed to produce 8 psi at 6,000 rpm may produce as little as 2.5 lbs. of boost at 3,000 rpm. Screw-type superchargers are more like turbochargers in that they build boost much earlier than a centrifugal or roots-type, and they are also belt-driven. Turbochargersare exhaust driven, and come up to speed very quickly (almost instantly if properly sized), and will reach the same 8 lb. peak boost level as low as 2,500 rpm. There will always be lag with a turbo system. Small size turbos are good for spooling at lower rpms but the user must utilize a wastegate to slow down the fans when boost gets too high. thus at a higher rpm. smaller turbos loose their appeal. On the other hand, you can use a twin turbo setup with a small and a large turbo mounted and this does well for having boost at all rpms.
Efficiency Comparison
Just like the air conditioner compressor on a car, all superchargers, including centrifugal, roots and screw-type, require horsepower to turn them. This "parasitic" drag is always present, even when the car is being driven normally, and can rob 20%-30% of the power being produced by the engine. The result is a significant decrease in fuel economy and less net power produced. Turbochargers, however, are exhaust gas driven and don't require the same parasitic loss to spin the compressor. When driven normally, a turbocharged car will not consume more fuel and, in fact, gas mileage can actually increase. Even when under full throttle, a turbocharger system will produce as much horsepower at 9 psi as a supercharger at 12 psi. Over all though, Superchargers are more reliable than turbos by themselves. This is because of the residual oil that sits inside the bearings can cook due to the high temperatures these turbos operate at; combined with the insane amount of rpms they spin at.
Reliability Comparison
Both superchargers and turbochargers require high compressor rpm to compress the air. This ranges from 30,000-65,000 rpm in superchargers and can be even higher with turbos (over 100,000 rpm). In order to achieve the high rpm levels required to compress the air to the psi required, superchargers must have a step-up mechanism (gears, belts, pulleys or a combination thereof) consisting of numerous moving parts, to convert 6,000 engine rpm to the 40,000+ rpm necessary to build boost. Turbochargers need no step-up mechanism and have only one moving part, the compressor/turbine wheel assembly (see Figure 2). The simplicity of the turbocharger is therefore less prone to mechanical problems. Superchargers must have a belt to drive them, and belt slippage or breakage can be a problem. More serious problems include crankshaft, bearing and engine damage caused by belt tension forces on the crankshaft. Turbochargers have no belt and no direct mechanical connection to the crankshaft, thereby eliminating these problems. It is interesting to note that many automobiles and nearly all large over-the-road trucks use turbochargers that regularly log in excess of a million miles of reliable performance.
Maintenance Comparison
Some superchargers have a separate lubricating system that must be maintained and some don’t. Turbochargers are lubricated by the engine oil, but will require tapping the oil pan to install, and require no additional maintenance beyond what is normally required for a naturally aspirated car.
Streetability Comparison
Superchargers are directly connected to the belt drive system, they are always producing some level of boost and cannot be "turned off". Because turbochargers only produce boost when under load (as in full throttle acceleration), performance under normal driving conditions is no different than if the engine were naturally aspirated. Turbocharged cars exhibit excellent drivability characteristics.
Upgradability and Adjustability Comparison
Superchargers are generally not upgradeable. When higher performance is required beyond the capabilities of a specific supercharger system, the entire system must be replaced. Turbocharger systems, however, are usually upgradeable by simply upgrading or installing a larger turbocharger without requiring replacement of the entire system. Further, adjusting the boost levels on a supercharger requires removing and replacing pulleys, idlers and belts. Adjusting the boost levels on a turbocharger may be accomplished as easy as a simple turn of a boost controller knob from the comfort of the inside of the car or without a controller a different spring must be installed in the wastegate.
Value/Price Comparison
At first glance, turbo systems may appear to cost more. However, if you consider everything that is included in a complete turbo kit that must be purchased in addition to the supercharger kit in order for the supercharger kit to be comparable (not even considering the performance differences), you may find the turbo system is less expensive and a much better horsepower per dollar value. Depends on your unique setup and what the purpose of your car is to decide on which is a better value.
Installation
Because of the few things required, most diy'ers can install a supercharger easily. Turbos require more installation work and also more upgrades to the engines bay. Supercharges on the other hand if not tuned properly can detonate and destroy the top end a lot easier.
Read story → 0 comments
Where to get your genuine Toyota parts
Feb 12 2011 10:28 AM | TRD JZX100 in Technical Resources
I've made up this list, based on my dealings in the past. Wanted to share, where I reckon is good to get genuine parts:
That's all the ones I can recall off the top of my head but if you know a place which can do killer prices then put it up
Read story → 12 comments
- Nick @ North Shore Toyota - official JZX World sponsor with big discounts for forum members!
- Castlehill Toyota (probably most of you know this one already) - check their site and fill up the form to get intouch.
- Leigh Elton at Southside Toyota (BNE) lelton@southsidetoyota.com.au - can get part prices long as you provide the Chassis/Vin number
- Mike Horne (Toyota USA) HorneM@autonation.com - Mike was pretty cool, replied quick and depending on the exact part , you may get it cheaper from the states (eg. wheel bearings)
- Check with Raven he mentioned a contact in Japan for parts (he might hate me for putting him up here LAWL but hey support the community
)
That's all the ones I can recall off the top of my head but if you know a place which can do killer prices then put it up
Read story → 12 comments
Headlight restoration!
Feb 20 2011 07:24 AM | TRD JZX100 in General Maintenance
Well my headlights had started to look a bit sad, so Mick suggested I come to his work and grab a Headlight Restoration Kit, so $28 later I had a cleaning kit.
The kits can be purchased from Motor Traders, repco, etc.
What you need
-Headlight restoration kit
-Socket set with 10mm socket
-Phillips head screw driver
Stock left headlight:
Stock right headlight:
Remove your corner indicator by undoing the screw on top of your headlight and slide it forwards and untwist the bulb. You will then be greeted by this:
Next up remove the 2 nuts on the side of the headlight support bar with 10mm socket, note the gunk on the headlight surface:
Then remove the bolt here holding down the headlight with a 10mm socket:
Then unplug the 4 plugs that go into the back of your headlight and wiggle the light out:
Take the 'Yellow X' out the box:
Spray it on the headlight and make sure you cover it in it, it will turn yellow on the surface as it removes the yellow build up. Then wipe dry, can still see the surface corrosion. As you can see my light has a lot of crap on it:
Next grab the included sandpaper, which ranges from 400,600,1000,1500 and 2000 and a water spray bottle and wet sand the light, going through from 400-2000 in the sandpaper
When your done sanding you should have something like this:
Grab the polish and a cloth (it comes with one, but I prefer a microfiber cloth:
Instructions said to apply polish to the cloth, but I found it worked better if i applied it to the headlight.
After This apply more of the Yellow X and allow it to stay on the light for 10 seconds.
Finally grab the UV coating, included glove and a cloth. Generously apply the UV coating to the cloth and wipe the light top to bottom. When your done you will have this:
Comparison of new vs old:
To reinstall just reverse the steps of the 4 plugs and 2 nuts and 1 bolt and your done:
Read story → 0 comments
The kits can be purchased from Motor Traders, repco, etc.
What you need
-Headlight restoration kit
-Socket set with 10mm socket
-Phillips head screw driver
Stock left headlight:
Stock right headlight:
Remove your corner indicator by undoing the screw on top of your headlight and slide it forwards and untwist the bulb. You will then be greeted by this:
Next up remove the 2 nuts on the side of the headlight support bar with 10mm socket, note the gunk on the headlight surface:
Then remove the bolt here holding down the headlight with a 10mm socket:
Then unplug the 4 plugs that go into the back of your headlight and wiggle the light out:
Take the 'Yellow X' out the box:
Spray it on the headlight and make sure you cover it in it, it will turn yellow on the surface as it removes the yellow build up. Then wipe dry, can still see the surface corrosion. As you can see my light has a lot of crap on it:
Next grab the included sandpaper, which ranges from 400,600,1000,1500 and 2000 and a water spray bottle and wet sand the light, going through from 400-2000 in the sandpaper
When your done sanding you should have something like this:
Grab the polish and a cloth (it comes with one, but I prefer a microfiber cloth:
Instructions said to apply polish to the cloth, but I found it worked better if i applied it to the headlight.
After This apply more of the Yellow X and allow it to stay on the light for 10 seconds.
Finally grab the UV coating, included glove and a cloth. Generously apply the UV coating to the cloth and wipe the light top to bottom. When your done you will have this:
Comparison of new vs old:
To reinstall just reverse the steps of the 4 plugs and 2 nuts and 1 bolt and your done:
Read story → 0 comments
TRD JZX100 Parts Catalogue
Jan 21 2011 01:14 PM | TRD JZX100 in JZX Mods
TRD Parts Listing for JZX100, all parts are for 1JZ-GTE RWD model only and auto or manual where specified (Part Name, Part #, Price in ¥en + any notes)
Aero Parts
TRD Aero Bumper (1): 52110-JX000 - ¥142,000
TRD Aero Bumper (2): 52110-JX010 - ¥142,000
Fog lamp (Cibie): 81210-JX000 - ¥14,700
TRD Aero Grill (1): 53100-JX000 - ¥24,150
TRD Aero Grill (2): 53100-JX010 - ¥24,150
Wheels - SportsT3 sold without center caps
TRD Magnesium front: 42610-SPA32-38 (18 × 7.5J +38) - discontinued Note: Will fit big brakes
TRD Magnesium rear: 42610-SPA52-40 (18 × 8.5J +40) - discontinued
TRD Sports front: 42610-SPB32-50 (18 × 7.5J +50) - discontinued
TRD Sports rear: 42610-SPB52-45 (18 × 8.5J +45) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 front: 42610-SP050-## (16 × 7.0JJ +43) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 front: 42610-SP020-## (17 × 7.5JJ +40) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 front: 42610-SP0B0-## (18 × 7.5JJ +40) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 rear: 42610-SP050-## (16 × 7.0JJ +43) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 rear: 42610-SP000-## (17 × 8.5JJ +40) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 rear: 42610-SP0C0-## (18 × 8.5JJ +40) - discontinued
Wheel Accessories
TRD Wheel Nut (ea): 90942-SP000 - discontinued
TRD Wheel Nut Set (Black): MS212-00002 (42607-SP000) - ¥3,885 Note: 16 nuts + 1 long reach socket
TRD Wheel Nut Set (Black): MS212-00001 (42607-SP010) - ¥4,725 Note: 20 nuts + 2 long reach sockets
TRD Center Cap for TRD Sports Wheels (silver): 42621-SP020 - discontinued
TRD Center Cap for TRD Sports Wheels (bronze): 42621-SP070 - discontinued
TRD Center Cap for TRD Magnesium Wheels: 42621-SP080 - discontinued
TRD Center Cap for TRD SportsT3 Wheels (silver): 42621-SP0A0 - ¥3,360
TRD Center Cap for TRD SportsT3 Wheels (black): 42621-SP0B0 - ¥3,360
TRD Air Valves (silver, magnesium): 42680-SP040 - discontinued
TRD Air Valves (bronze, Sports, SportsT3): 42680-SP050 - ¥1,050
HID Lighting
HID Bulb Set HB3/HB4 (6000K): 90981-SP040 - ¥54,600
HID Ballast & Starter Kits: 81001-SP030 - discontinued
HID Bulb Set HB4 (4300K): 81001-SP000 - discontinued
HID Fitting Kit: 89503-JX000 - discontinued
HID Bulb Kits: MS402-00001 / MS402-00002 - discontinued
Exhaust
High Response Muffler Type S: 17400-JX011 - discontinued
Sports Catalyzer: 17420-JX000 - ¥115,500 Note: Auto only
Air Filter
Sports Air Filter (panel): 17801-JA810 - ¥10,290
Oil Filler Cap
Aluminium Oil Filler Cap (silver): 12180-SP020 - ¥10,290
Aluminium Oil Filler Cap (gold): 12180-SP060 - discontinued
Resin Oil Filer Cap (black): 12180-SP040 - discontinued
Cooling
Radiator Cap (1.3bar): 16401-SP030 - ¥3,150
Sports Thermostat: 16340-SP020 - ¥8,400
Radiator Hose (upper): 16571-JX000 - discontinued
Radiator Hose (lower): 16572-JX000 - discontinued
Lubrication
Sports Oil Filter: 90915-SP020 - ¥2,835
Bling
Fuel Cap Cover: MS360-00002 (77315-SP000) - discontinued
Chassis Rigidity
Strut Tower Bar (front): 53607-JX001 - ¥27,300
Floor Brace (front): 51403-JX000 - ¥18,900
Suspension
Height Adjustable Coilover Kit (circuit spec): 48000-JX070 - discontinued
Coilover Springs (front): 48131-SP002-10 - ¥7,350 Note: K = 98.0N/mm
Coilover Springs (front): 48131-SP002-12 - ¥7,350 Note: K = 117.6N/mm
Coilover Springs (front): 48131-SP002-14 - discontinued Note: K = 137.2N/mm
Coilover Springs (rear): 48131-SP002-70 - discontinued Note: K = 68.6N/mm
Coilover Springs (rear): 48131-SP002-80 - ¥7,350 Note: K = 78.4N/mm
Coilover Springs (rear): 48131-SP002-90 - discontinued Note: K = 88.2N/mm
Coilover Springs (rear): 48131-SP002-10 - ¥7,350 Note: K = 98.0N/mm
Coilover Adjustment C Wrench: 09141-SP000 - ¥2,310
Shock Absorber (front): 48510-JX900 - ¥21,000 Note: 4 Step Adjustable
Shock Absorber (rear): 48530-JX900 - ¥21,000 Note: 8 Step Adjustable
Lowering Springs (complete set): 48130-JX900 - ¥33,600 Note: K = 81.3N/mm front, K = 48.0N/mm rear
Lowering Springs (front): 48131-JX900 - ¥8,400 Note: K = 81.3N/mm
Lowering Springs (rear:): 48231-JX900 - ¥8,400 Note: K = 48.0N/mm
Stabiliser Bar (sway bar - front): 48810-JX000 - ¥26,250 Note: f = 28.6 Hollow, 39% stiffer than stock
Stabiliser Bar (sway bar - rear): 48830-JX000 - discontinued Note: f = 24.2 Hollow, 76% stiffer than stock
Suspension Bushes + Engine Mounts
Engine Mount: 12360-JX000 - ¥14,700
Engine Mount (MT only): 12371-JX000 - discontinued
[3] Front upper arm: 48632-JX000 - ¥3,780
[4] Front lower arm No.1: 48654-JX000 - ¥2,625
[5] Front lower arm No.2: 48655-JX000 - ¥2,625
[6] Upper A arm: 48702-JX000 - ¥2,310
[7] Rear suspension arm bush No.1: 48725-JX000 - ¥1,050
[8] Rear suspension arm bush No.2: 48725-JX010 - ¥1,050
[9] Rear strut rod bush: 48725-JX020 - ¥1,890
[10] Rear differential mount cushion: 52205-JX000 - ¥8,925
[11] Rear suspension member cushion: 52271-JX000 - ¥7,875
[12] Rear suspension member stopper: 52273-JX000 - ¥1,050
[13] Rear differential mount cushion: 41651-JX000 - ¥6,300
[14] Rear differential mount cushion: 41651-JX010 - ¥6,300
[15] Rear differential mount cushion: 41651-JX020 - ¥8,400
[16] Rear differential mount stopper: 41654-JX000 - ¥1,260
[3-9] Suspension Bush Set: 48650-JX000 - ¥42,840
[10-12] Rear Subframe Bush Set: 51205-JX000 - ¥35,700
[13-16] Diff Bush Set: 41065-JX000 - ¥29,820
Braking
Brake Pads Front (black): 04491-JA820 - ¥13,650
Brake Pads Rear (black): 04492-JX010 - ¥13,650
TRD Monoblock Brake Kit: 43051-JX020 - discontinued
TRD High Performance Brake Kit: 43051-JX010 - discontinued
Braided Brake Lines: 47031-JX900 - discontinued
Differentials
Torsen LSD: 41301-JX001 - discontinued
Torsen LSD Shim: 40101-JX000 - ¥630
Torsen LSD Shim: 40101-JX010 - ¥630
Torsen LSD Rebuild Kit: 04413-JX000 - ¥21,000
Mechanical LSD: 41301-MZ210 - 95,550
Mechanical LSD Shim: 40101-TA401 - ¥630
Mechanical LSD Rebuild Kit: 40107-MZ202 - ¥22,050
Clutch
Twin Plate Clutch: 31000-JX000 - ¥207,900 Note: max torque 617N·m, max horsepower 478kW (650ps), max load 9,310N (950kgf) @ 7,400RPM
Toyota SST (Special Service Tool) for Twin Plate Clutch: 09301-JX000 - ¥7,665
Clutch Cover: 31210-JA700 - ¥52,500
Clutch Disk (metal): 31250-JA700 - ¥47,250
Braided Clutch Line: 90947-JX000 - discontinued
Flywheel
Lightweight Flywheel: 13405-JX100 - discontinued NOTE: 24% weight reduction, 34% inertia reduction
Gauges
Full Scale Speed Meter (320km/h speedo): 83110-JX000 - discontinued
Steering Wheels - Excluding vehicles with cruise control
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 96-98.8 (black): 45100-SP001 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 96-98.8 (black/red): 45100-SP011 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 96-98.8 (black/blue): 45100-SP041-80 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 98~ (black): 45100-SP021 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 98~ (black/red): 45100-SP031 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 98~ (black/blue): 45100-SP051-80 - discontinued
Seating
Sports Bucket Seats (black/grey): 71100-SP020 - discontinued
Sports Bucket Seats (red/grey): 71100-SP050 - discontinued
Seat Rails for Sports Bucket Seats (right): 72101-JX000 - discontinued
Seat Rails for Sports Bucket Seats (left): 72102-JX000 - discontinued
Airbag Cancelor 96-98.8: 82199-JX000 - ¥1,575
Airbag Cancelor 98~: 82199-JX010 - ¥1,575
Electric Lumbar Support Cancelor: 82191-JX000 - discontinued
Transmission
Quick Shifter: 33530-JX000 - ¥35,700
Manual Shift Knob (Asymmetric): 33504-SP003 - ¥8,610
Manual Shift Knob (Round): 33504-SP006 - ¥2,625
Manual Shift Knob (Resin) White: 33504-SP010-00 - ¥5,040
Manual Shift Knob (Resin) Black: 33504-SP010-20 - ¥5,040
Auto Shift Knob (Gated): MS204-00003 (33504-SP005) - ¥10,290
Turbo
TRD Turbo Kit: 17200-JX000 - discontinued Note: Max output 227.85kw (310ps) / 403.8N·m (41.2kg·m)
Read story → 0 comments
Aero Parts
TRD Aero Bumper (1): 52110-JX000 - ¥142,000
TRD Aero Bumper (2): 52110-JX010 - ¥142,000
Fog lamp (Cibie): 81210-JX000 - ¥14,700
TRD Aero Grill (1): 53100-JX000 - ¥24,150
TRD Aero Grill (2): 53100-JX010 - ¥24,150
Wheels - SportsT3 sold without center caps
TRD Magnesium front: 42610-SPA32-38 (18 × 7.5J +38) - discontinued Note: Will fit big brakes
TRD Magnesium rear: 42610-SPA52-40 (18 × 8.5J +40) - discontinued
TRD Sports front: 42610-SPB32-50 (18 × 7.5J +50) - discontinued
TRD Sports rear: 42610-SPB52-45 (18 × 8.5J +45) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 front: 42610-SP050-## (16 × 7.0JJ +43) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 front: 42610-SP020-## (17 × 7.5JJ +40) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 front: 42610-SP0B0-## (18 × 7.5JJ +40) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 rear: 42610-SP050-## (16 × 7.0JJ +43) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 rear: 42610-SP000-## (17 × 8.5JJ +40) - discontinued
TRD SportsT3 rear: 42610-SP0C0-## (18 × 8.5JJ +40) - discontinued
Wheel Accessories
TRD Wheel Nut (ea): 90942-SP000 - discontinued
TRD Wheel Nut Set (Black): MS212-00002 (42607-SP000) - ¥3,885 Note: 16 nuts + 1 long reach socket
TRD Wheel Nut Set (Black): MS212-00001 (42607-SP010) - ¥4,725 Note: 20 nuts + 2 long reach sockets
TRD Center Cap for TRD Sports Wheels (silver): 42621-SP020 - discontinued
TRD Center Cap for TRD Sports Wheels (bronze): 42621-SP070 - discontinued
TRD Center Cap for TRD Magnesium Wheels: 42621-SP080 - discontinued
TRD Center Cap for TRD SportsT3 Wheels (silver): 42621-SP0A0 - ¥3,360
TRD Center Cap for TRD SportsT3 Wheels (black): 42621-SP0B0 - ¥3,360
TRD Air Valves (silver, magnesium): 42680-SP040 - discontinued
TRD Air Valves (bronze, Sports, SportsT3): 42680-SP050 - ¥1,050
HID Lighting
HID Bulb Set HB3/HB4 (6000K): 90981-SP040 - ¥54,600
HID Ballast & Starter Kits: 81001-SP030 - discontinued
HID Bulb Set HB4 (4300K): 81001-SP000 - discontinued
HID Fitting Kit: 89503-JX000 - discontinued
HID Bulb Kits: MS402-00001 / MS402-00002 - discontinued
Exhaust
High Response Muffler Type S: 17400-JX011 - discontinued
Sports Catalyzer: 17420-JX000 - ¥115,500 Note: Auto only
Air Filter
Sports Air Filter (panel): 17801-JA810 - ¥10,290
Oil Filler Cap
Aluminium Oil Filler Cap (silver): 12180-SP020 - ¥10,290
Aluminium Oil Filler Cap (gold): 12180-SP060 - discontinued
Resin Oil Filer Cap (black): 12180-SP040 - discontinued
Cooling
Radiator Cap (1.3bar): 16401-SP030 - ¥3,150
Sports Thermostat: 16340-SP020 - ¥8,400
Radiator Hose (upper): 16571-JX000 - discontinued
Radiator Hose (lower): 16572-JX000 - discontinued
Lubrication
Sports Oil Filter: 90915-SP020 - ¥2,835
Bling
Fuel Cap Cover: MS360-00002 (77315-SP000) - discontinued
Chassis Rigidity
Strut Tower Bar (front): 53607-JX001 - ¥27,300
Floor Brace (front): 51403-JX000 - ¥18,900
Suspension
Height Adjustable Coilover Kit (circuit spec): 48000-JX070 - discontinued
Coilover Springs (front): 48131-SP002-10 - ¥7,350 Note: K = 98.0N/mm
Coilover Springs (front): 48131-SP002-12 - ¥7,350 Note: K = 117.6N/mm
Coilover Springs (front): 48131-SP002-14 - discontinued Note: K = 137.2N/mm
Coilover Springs (rear): 48131-SP002-70 - discontinued Note: K = 68.6N/mm
Coilover Springs (rear): 48131-SP002-80 - ¥7,350 Note: K = 78.4N/mm
Coilover Springs (rear): 48131-SP002-90 - discontinued Note: K = 88.2N/mm
Coilover Springs (rear): 48131-SP002-10 - ¥7,350 Note: K = 98.0N/mm
Coilover Adjustment C Wrench: 09141-SP000 - ¥2,310
Shock Absorber (front): 48510-JX900 - ¥21,000 Note: 4 Step Adjustable
Shock Absorber (rear): 48530-JX900 - ¥21,000 Note: 8 Step Adjustable
Lowering Springs (complete set): 48130-JX900 - ¥33,600 Note: K = 81.3N/mm front, K = 48.0N/mm rear
Lowering Springs (front): 48131-JX900 - ¥8,400 Note: K = 81.3N/mm
Lowering Springs (rear:): 48231-JX900 - ¥8,400 Note: K = 48.0N/mm
Stabiliser Bar (sway bar - front): 48810-JX000 - ¥26,250 Note: f = 28.6 Hollow, 39% stiffer than stock
Stabiliser Bar (sway bar - rear): 48830-JX000 - discontinued Note: f = 24.2 Hollow, 76% stiffer than stock
Suspension Bushes + Engine Mounts
Engine Mount: 12360-JX000 - ¥14,700
Engine Mount (MT only): 12371-JX000 - discontinued
[3] Front upper arm: 48632-JX000 - ¥3,780
[4] Front lower arm No.1: 48654-JX000 - ¥2,625
[5] Front lower arm No.2: 48655-JX000 - ¥2,625
[6] Upper A arm: 48702-JX000 - ¥2,310
[7] Rear suspension arm bush No.1: 48725-JX000 - ¥1,050
[8] Rear suspension arm bush No.2: 48725-JX010 - ¥1,050
[9] Rear strut rod bush: 48725-JX020 - ¥1,890
[10] Rear differential mount cushion: 52205-JX000 - ¥8,925
[11] Rear suspension member cushion: 52271-JX000 - ¥7,875
[12] Rear suspension member stopper: 52273-JX000 - ¥1,050
[13] Rear differential mount cushion: 41651-JX000 - ¥6,300
[14] Rear differential mount cushion: 41651-JX010 - ¥6,300
[15] Rear differential mount cushion: 41651-JX020 - ¥8,400
[16] Rear differential mount stopper: 41654-JX000 - ¥1,260
[3-9] Suspension Bush Set: 48650-JX000 - ¥42,840
[10-12] Rear Subframe Bush Set: 51205-JX000 - ¥35,700
[13-16] Diff Bush Set: 41065-JX000 - ¥29,820
Braking
Brake Pads Front (black): 04491-JA820 - ¥13,650
Brake Pads Rear (black): 04492-JX010 - ¥13,650
TRD Monoblock Brake Kit: 43051-JX020 - discontinued
TRD High Performance Brake Kit: 43051-JX010 - discontinued
Braided Brake Lines: 47031-JX900 - discontinued
Differentials
Torsen LSD: 41301-JX001 - discontinued
Torsen LSD Shim: 40101-JX000 - ¥630
Torsen LSD Shim: 40101-JX010 - ¥630
Torsen LSD Rebuild Kit: 04413-JX000 - ¥21,000
Mechanical LSD: 41301-MZ210 - 95,550
Mechanical LSD Shim: 40101-TA401 - ¥630
Mechanical LSD Rebuild Kit: 40107-MZ202 - ¥22,050
Clutch
Twin Plate Clutch: 31000-JX000 - ¥207,900 Note: max torque 617N·m, max horsepower 478kW (650ps), max load 9,310N (950kgf) @ 7,400RPM
Toyota SST (Special Service Tool) for Twin Plate Clutch: 09301-JX000 - ¥7,665
Clutch Cover: 31210-JA700 - ¥52,500
Clutch Disk (metal): 31250-JA700 - ¥47,250
Braided Clutch Line: 90947-JX000 - discontinued
Flywheel
Lightweight Flywheel: 13405-JX100 - discontinued NOTE: 24% weight reduction, 34% inertia reduction
Gauges
Full Scale Speed Meter (320km/h speedo): 83110-JX000 - discontinued
Steering Wheels - Excluding vehicles with cruise control
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 96-98.8 (black): 45100-SP001 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 96-98.8 (black/red): 45100-SP011 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 96-98.8 (black/blue): 45100-SP041-80 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 98~ (black): 45100-SP021 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 98~ (black/red): 45100-SP031 - discontinued
SRS Airbag Sports Wteering Wheel 98~ (black/blue): 45100-SP051-80 - discontinued
Seating
Sports Bucket Seats (black/grey): 71100-SP020 - discontinued
Sports Bucket Seats (red/grey): 71100-SP050 - discontinued
Seat Rails for Sports Bucket Seats (right): 72101-JX000 - discontinued
Seat Rails for Sports Bucket Seats (left): 72102-JX000 - discontinued
Airbag Cancelor 96-98.8: 82199-JX000 - ¥1,575
Airbag Cancelor 98~: 82199-JX010 - ¥1,575
Electric Lumbar Support Cancelor: 82191-JX000 - discontinued
Transmission
Quick Shifter: 33530-JX000 - ¥35,700
Manual Shift Knob (Asymmetric): 33504-SP003 - ¥8,610
Manual Shift Knob (Round): 33504-SP006 - ¥2,625
Manual Shift Knob (Resin) White: 33504-SP010-00 - ¥5,040
Manual Shift Knob (Resin) Black: 33504-SP010-20 - ¥5,040
Auto Shift Knob (Gated): MS204-00003 (33504-SP005) - ¥10,290
Turbo
TRD Turbo Kit: 17200-JX000 - discontinued Note: Max output 227.85kw (310ps) / 403.8N·m (41.2kg·m)
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Spark Plugs for the 1JZ-GTE VVT-i
Dec 12 2010 01:15 AM | TRD JZX100 in General Maintenance
Spark Plugs
The 1JZ-GTE VVT-i engine uses a wasted spark ignition system which requires the use of a dual (or more) electrode spark plug (see, 1JZ GTE VVT-i maintenance sticker above). While normal plugs may still work, their operating life will be greatly reducedas as a result of the way the wasted spark ignition system operates.
As such, the following NGK plugs are recommended as replacements on a stock (unmodified) engine:
- NGK BKR6EK (twin electrode copper plug ~$8.00ea)
- NGK BKR6EKPB-11 (twin electrode 'Premium Platinum, Special Design' spark plug ~$20.00ea)
A good place to buy these plugs is at http://www.hardparts.com.au If you spend over $100 you get free shipping...
Other brands of spark plug, such as Bosch, Denso, Champion etc. should have similar types of plugs to the NGKs mentioned above. So, if you are more comfortable using another spark plug manufacturer then please do so by all means, just keep in mind the two electrode requirement.
Additionally, spark plugs for a modified engine with increased output are beyond the scope of this Wiki page, in which case you should consult your mechanic or tuner for their preference or recommendations.
NOTE: Since not a lot of places stock the above mentioned plugs, in a pinch, you can quite comfortably get away with running 'normal' spark plugs such as the NGK BKR6E, BKR6E-11, BKR7E, BKR7E-11 etc. varieties and still get around 5,000kms usage out of them
Wasted Spark Ignition System
Distributor-less Ignition Systems are available in two types - Individual Coil Systems (also known as "coil-on-plug") and Wasted Spark Ignition.
Wasted Spark Ignition systems use one coil for every two cylinders (i.e. 1JZ GTE). The coil provides the spark for one of the paired cylinders on the compression stroke and to the other on the exhaust stroke. Because the coil fires the spark plug on the exhaust stroke as well, it is appropriately named 'wasted spark ignition'. In effect, the spark plugs fire simultaneously and twice as often.
One of the two paired spark plugs is always negative polarity while the other spark plug is always positive polarity. Negative polarity means the spark plug's center electrode is negatively charged and its ground electrode is positively charged. Positive polarity is the opposite. Each time the plug fires, a rapid exchange of the protons and electrons occurs, called ionization.
The negatively charged electrons will be attracted to whichever side of the spark plug that is positively charged. The positively charged protons have much more mass than electrons, and thus cause more wear on the electrode they collide with. Hence, one plug will exhibit more wear on its ground electrode, while the other plug will experience more wear on its center electrode. If a spark plug with a precious metal on only the center electrode were to be used with this type of ignition system, there would be uneven wear on half the plugs. Although single precious metal or standard nickel plugs will still allow the engine to run, plug life will be greatly reduced.
Therefore, if a vehicle was originally equipped with dual precious metal spark plugs, replacement with a single precious metal or standard nickel plug may reduce plug life and engine performance.
Spark Plug Gapping
When it comes to spark plug gaps, the general rule of thumb seems to be, 'run the largest gap you can get away with!' Just because you end up with a small spark plug gap does not immediately mean that that is the correct or best setting for your application. The larger the spark plug gap, the more energy it can release and the better burn the air fuel mixture experience.
The stock spark plug gap for the 1JZ GTE VVT-i motor is recommended to be 1.1mm. Once you start modifying various aspects of your engine to improve it's performance you generally start to move away from the ideal conditions the original manufacturer indented the engine to be operating at. Thus, you may begin to experience issues with spark delivery. If this is the case, simply modifying the spark plug gap may cure your problems. If not, you may need to experiment with different spark plug heat ranges and gaps as well.
Essentially, if you follow the rule of thumb noted above, you'd start off with the factory 1.1mm gap and work downwards until you reach a plug gap that eliminates or at the very least minimizes the issues associated with your 'boosted' engine.
If you continue to experience spark related problems, you may need to change the heat range of your plug and start the gapping process again from the 1.1mm factory spec.
Once you've started on the modification roundabout, there is no sure fire way of determining exactly which plug (heat range, etc.) or gap will work in your particular application. It's simply a matter of testing different combinations until you find the best compromise.
Spark Plug Heat Range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburation or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage.
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The 1JZ-GTE VVT-i engine uses a wasted spark ignition system which requires the use of a dual (or more) electrode spark plug (see, 1JZ GTE VVT-i maintenance sticker above). While normal plugs may still work, their operating life will be greatly reducedas as a result of the way the wasted spark ignition system operates.
As such, the following NGK plugs are recommended as replacements on a stock (unmodified) engine:
- NGK BKR6EK (twin electrode copper plug ~$8.00ea)
- NGK BKR6EKPB-11 (twin electrode 'Premium Platinum, Special Design' spark plug ~$20.00ea)
A good place to buy these plugs is at http://www.hardparts.com.au If you spend over $100 you get free shipping...
Other brands of spark plug, such as Bosch, Denso, Champion etc. should have similar types of plugs to the NGKs mentioned above. So, if you are more comfortable using another spark plug manufacturer then please do so by all means, just keep in mind the two electrode requirement.
Additionally, spark plugs for a modified engine with increased output are beyond the scope of this Wiki page, in which case you should consult your mechanic or tuner for their preference or recommendations.
NOTE: Since not a lot of places stock the above mentioned plugs, in a pinch, you can quite comfortably get away with running 'normal' spark plugs such as the NGK BKR6E, BKR6E-11, BKR7E, BKR7E-11 etc. varieties and still get around 5,000kms usage out of them
Wasted Spark Ignition System
Distributor-less Ignition Systems are available in two types - Individual Coil Systems (also known as "coil-on-plug") and Wasted Spark Ignition.
Wasted Spark Ignition systems use one coil for every two cylinders (i.e. 1JZ GTE). The coil provides the spark for one of the paired cylinders on the compression stroke and to the other on the exhaust stroke. Because the coil fires the spark plug on the exhaust stroke as well, it is appropriately named 'wasted spark ignition'. In effect, the spark plugs fire simultaneously and twice as often.
One of the two paired spark plugs is always negative polarity while the other spark plug is always positive polarity. Negative polarity means the spark plug's center electrode is negatively charged and its ground electrode is positively charged. Positive polarity is the opposite. Each time the plug fires, a rapid exchange of the protons and electrons occurs, called ionization.
The negatively charged electrons will be attracted to whichever side of the spark plug that is positively charged. The positively charged protons have much more mass than electrons, and thus cause more wear on the electrode they collide with. Hence, one plug will exhibit more wear on its ground electrode, while the other plug will experience more wear on its center electrode. If a spark plug with a precious metal on only the center electrode were to be used with this type of ignition system, there would be uneven wear on half the plugs. Although single precious metal or standard nickel plugs will still allow the engine to run, plug life will be greatly reduced.
Therefore, if a vehicle was originally equipped with dual precious metal spark plugs, replacement with a single precious metal or standard nickel plug may reduce plug life and engine performance.
Spark Plug Gapping
When it comes to spark plug gaps, the general rule of thumb seems to be, 'run the largest gap you can get away with!' Just because you end up with a small spark plug gap does not immediately mean that that is the correct or best setting for your application. The larger the spark plug gap, the more energy it can release and the better burn the air fuel mixture experience.
The stock spark plug gap for the 1JZ GTE VVT-i motor is recommended to be 1.1mm. Once you start modifying various aspects of your engine to improve it's performance you generally start to move away from the ideal conditions the original manufacturer indented the engine to be operating at. Thus, you may begin to experience issues with spark delivery. If this is the case, simply modifying the spark plug gap may cure your problems. If not, you may need to experiment with different spark plug heat ranges and gaps as well.
Essentially, if you follow the rule of thumb noted above, you'd start off with the factory 1.1mm gap and work downwards until you reach a plug gap that eliminates or at the very least minimizes the issues associated with your 'boosted' engine.
If you continue to experience spark related problems, you may need to change the heat range of your plug and start the gapping process again from the 1.1mm factory spec.
Once you've started on the modification roundabout, there is no sure fire way of determining exactly which plug (heat range, etc.) or gap will work in your particular application. It's simply a matter of testing different combinations until you find the best compromise.
Spark Plug Heat Range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburation or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage.
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JZX Hall of Fame!
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TRD JZX100
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